Like unto the District of Columbia herself, those elected to her keep are of a sort unclassified in time and place. That is, their lives are constantly in limbo between one place and another, and time magically increases or decreases by the traffic of time zones. On account of traveling, Congressional families are never altogether at ease in any given place. We know we must fly again before too long, and this recognition gives us to live differently than we might if we knew it was ours to stay put. Unfortunately, we rarely come to understand what makes a city unique because our time is so measured, and our visits so fleeting.
Many people call DC home, and many of these are not members in that traveling circus of elected officials. They live their lives in the streets and neighborhoods of the city, and just as I know Boulder well from years of having grown up there, these others know DC in its completeness. They know its best-kept secrets, its life by day and then again by night, its restaurants and movie theaters, its best happy hours and its better walking paths in parks that seem altogether beautiful to the arriviste. We families who are caught always between one place and another, extend our reach barely beyond the impotent strain of a tourist, who believes he has seen the best when all he has seen is a sample of what a city offers. Yes, we have favorite restaurants, but of necessity, and only by the grace of friends who’ve seen fit to proffer recommendations. We gather our weekend plans from tourist guides, and we return again and again to the places that through trial and error, we’ve judged to be viable.
Still, it is a process, and one we should not rush. Clearly, it is an onus commonly borne by travelers in any country, that they must learn to be comfortable in a place they were not reared. DC is really the first city I’ve lived after Boulder. I’ve traveled extensively, but never felt in those travels, that I would be held accountable to the cities in which I sojourned. Who would fault me for not knowing the esoteric Athens, or the arcane Jerusalem? So it seemed these places were to my foreign eye. They were exotic and daunting, and I thought better of staying in them for only a short time, lest I recognize need in learning them beyond their tourist traps.
What put me in a mind to contemplate place? Last night, my partner and I got round to visiting the famous national monuments of DC. They stand in a line down what is called ”The National Mall”. It begins at the foot of the Capitol, then stretches North toward Washington Monument, then on to the World War II Memorial, and concluding with Lincoln Memorial. It’s quite a walk, and objects appear closer when they are, in fact, 20 minutes off.
I heard tell that the monuments are best viewed at night because they are cast in spotlights and made to shine gloriously against a backdrop all black, of twinkling stars and the lonely moon. Whoever made that recommendation was entirely correct. We started with the Washington Monument. A stately obelisk rising in height to 555 feet, it is the tallest structure in Washington, and fittingly, it is quite terrifying to behold up close. I wondered how people went about constructing it in the 1850s. Some poor soul perched at that great height, laying mortar and bricks while gazing down the long plummet he might suffer if he were not careful. The WWII Memorial is a beautiful testimony to the courage of the soldiers who fought for America in that war. They are recounted by some 3,000 gold stars fixed to a marble wall overlooking a reflecting pool. And Lincoln Memorial is an awesome sight, quite literally a temple at the center of which, sits the famed statue of Lincoln in his chair. On either side of the statue are engraved Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address and his Inaugural Address to the American People.
These stunning monuments reminded me of the temples I saw in Greece, only they represent architecture at the height of our civilization. All that remains in Greece are the hollowed-out ruins of once-glorious constructs. Even the Parthenon in Athens, beautiful as it must have been, has suffered the dissolution of its roof, which came down after the French bombarded it sometime last century. Of course, the Greek ruins are truly awe-inspiring, even in their latter years, after wind and rain have weathered them. They hint at the grandeur of Greece 2,500 years ago, when it was the worldly abode of humanity’s greatest thinkers. In our own monuments to Democracy, we are blissfully young and not yet succumbed to the meaner fates of history. We see, in them, what humanity is capable of creating, and we are proud for the work of our hands and for the strength of our ideals.
It was exciting finally to partake in some of DC’s most famous attractions, though we were not far from the beaten path. Even at 9pm, the monuments were overrun with clicker-happy tourists and maybe the occasional native out for his or her nighttime walk amongst history. If you find yourself in DC, the monuments at twilight are well worth your time.
